The living rock: the origins of climbing in Australia

This site is an archive of documents, images, interviews and other information relevant to the origins of climbing in Australia. Comments are welcome (meadowsmh@gmail.com). Text copyright 2024 M.Meadows. Copyright to photographs is held by named photographers. Please request permission to reproduce.

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

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Mt Geryon: 1st winter ascent, 1960 Ron Cox had emerged as a dominant figure in the Queensland (and Australian) climbing scene and always...
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A long abseil Over Easter 1960, Ron Cox, Grahame Hardy and Basil Yule made the first descent of the 350 metre East Face of Mt Barney, follow...

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The 1st ascent of East Crookneck Ron Cox began his epic on a biting, cold winter’s day in June 1959. With Pat Conaghan belaying, he slowly a...

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Pushing the limits As Cliff Richard and the Shadows burst upon the popular music scene, university physics student Ron Cox launched a three-...

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First Australian at the South Pole While his former climbing partners grappled with the heat of a 1956 Queensland summer, Jon Stephenson (pi...

The modern Australian climber, circa 1958

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By the mid to late 1950s, climbing down under had become ‘an exhilarating and exciting pastime’, according to the magazine Australian Outdoo...

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Geoff Goadby (left) and Alan Frost inside the amazing Shell Rock on the western shoulder of Beerwah, in the Glasshouse Mountains, following ...

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The West Beerwah chimney Bert Salmon had discovered a huge hollow boulder, perched precariously above Beerwah’s western cliffs in the Glassh...

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Buildings and bridges From the late 1920s, climbing cultures had emerged in Queensland and New South Wales, but even back then, not all the ...
Monday, September 19, 2005

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Reptile Climber Mike Woodrow on the first pitch of the steep, spectacular route, Reptile , on the Funnel in The Steamers shortly after the f...

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The 1st ascent of Boonoo Boonoo Falls By 1956, climbing was expanding around Australia with activity in Bungonia Gorge, the Wolgan and Cap...

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A leap of Faith In 1955 in Queensland, Bill Peascod played a key role in influencing a new approach to climbing. Some called it 'a new e...

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Bill Peascod addressing a climbing training session at Kangaroo Point in Brisbane, 1955, with an impressive array of carabiners and pitons....

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The Tigers' rule Bill Peascod emigrated to Australia in 1952 but climbing was far from his mind at the time. From 1938, he had put up nu...
Saturday, September 17, 2005

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Climbing with 'the spiritual father' The following edited account was published in the Italian Alpine Club journal, Lo Scarpone, i...
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Alan Frost, Jon Stephenson, Geoff Goadby and Peter Barnes: 1st ascent of Glennies Pulpit in the Fassifern valley, 1954. The climb was t...

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Jon Stephenson takes in the Hinchinbrook Island panorama en route to the 1st ascent of The Thumb on Mt Bowen, January 1953. Picture: John C...

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Hinchinbrook Is: the 1st ascent of The Thumb, 1953 One of the last sought-after unclimbed summits in Australia in 1952 lay just off the n...

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Victorians make their mark Southwest Tasmania's Federation Peak was again the focus of climbing activity in 1952 when John Young, Joan...

Reds under the beds

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Sometime in the early part of 1951, a special Brisbane Climbing Club meeting was called and Dr Freddie Whitehouse, a respected lecturer in g...

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More ascents in t he Steamers Two weeks after his first ascent in August 1950 of the Mast in the Steamer formation, Bob Waring returned for...

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The Steamers from the air. The formation is named because of its resemblance to a boat sailing west. From left, the features are the Prow, ...

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First ascents in The Steamers Towards the end of August 1950, Queensland climbers Bob Waring and Jon Stephenson set off to climb the first n...

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The Sydney Rock Climbing Club is born From the early 1950s in Australia, outdoors’ organisations seemed to breed overnight, resulting in an ...

Climbing in the 1950s

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The only type of rope readily available as a climbing aid during the 1950s and early 1960s was Australian sisal but it was unreliable in hol...

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The Brisbane Climbing Club 1950 In April 1950, the Brisbane Climbing Club was started by climbers in the Brisbane Bush Walkers Club (set up ...
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Friday, September 16, 2005

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Federation Peak One of the few remaining unclimbed summits in Australia, Federation Peak in southwest Tasmania , became the focus of postwa...

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Geoff Goadby on the steep, loose east face of Mt Warning in 1949. This was his second ascent of the face with Raoul Mellish and Reg Ballard....

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The Waring ledge Brisbane-based Bob Waring had climbed Mt Barney several times by 1949 and his friend Jon Stephenson mentioned a possible ...

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The end of an era World War II (1939-1945) virtually stopped climbing around the world, apart from specialised mountaineering training giv...

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Between wars Virtually all of the early mass climbing activity in Australia before World War II was in southeast Queensland and northern Ne...

The 1st ascent of the Arethusa Falls

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In 1931, the Blue Mountaineers set out on their biggest challenge—the first ascent of Arethusa Falls in the Grose Valley. The first attempt ...
Thursday, September 15, 2005

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The Warrumbungles Throughout the 1930s, Eric Dark pioneered climbing in the Warrumbungles , a group of spectacular volcanic spires in wester...

The Katoomba Suicide Club

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Sometime in 1929, 40 year old New South Wales doctor Eric Payten Dark began scrambling on the multicoloured sandstone cliffs at Narrow Neck ...
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A record crowd of 15 people climb Crookneck, 3 September 1933 Queensland’s climbing women became big news in the 1930s. The 1934 efforts of ...
Tuesday, September 13, 2005

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The challenge of the Fly Wall New South Wales identity Dr Eric Dark (pictured at the top of the cliff) headed a small group of local climbe...

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Brisbane climber Muriel Patten on the final few metres of the first female (and unroped) ascent of the 1st Sister in the Blue Mountains in ...
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