The living rock: the origins of climbing in Australia

This site is an archive of documents, images, interviews and other information relevant to the origins of climbing in Australia. Comments are welcome (meadowsmh@gmail.com). Text copyright 2024 M.Meadows. Copyright to photographs is held by named photographers. Please request permission to reproduce.

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

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'Dirty Don' in the deep north Greg Sheard moved to Townsville in 1970 and soon tracked down some locals who were interested in clim...

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Big wall battles Big wall climbing was news in various Australian magazines (pictured) at this time with the antics of John Ewbank and othe...

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Deep Purple on Rock By 1970, many of the easy, obvious lines had been climbed at Frog Buttress and it would be a hard core who would eke ou...

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Ethical adventures Ted Cais with an array of pitons and ‘crackers’—a central element of clean climbing ethics applied in Queensland from the...

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Victoria versus the rest From the mid-1960s, the Sydney-based climbing magazine, Thrutch , had become the main conduit for Australian climbe...

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Back to the 'Bungle s Easter 1969 saw another small, strong contingent of Queensland climbers heading for the volcanic spires of the W...

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The 1st Frog Buttress guidebook Around the middle of 1969, Rick White produced his own guidebook to Frog Buttress and it was quickly out...

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The revolution continues Although still very much a male-dominated world, talented 16 year old Marilyn Dall (pictured left) joined with ‘v...

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Hi-ho, hi-ho, de-bolting we will go In August 1968, the Brisbane Rockclimbing Club became the first in Australia—after the Sydney Rockclim...

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Ted Cais ' jamBs' over the bulge on the 2nd ascent of Infinity at Frog Buttress. He recalls his relationship with Rick White and ...

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'Paradise found' It was a Saturday afternoon—9 November 1968—when Rick White and Chris Meadows on the spur of the moment decided to ...

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The Brisbane Rockclimbing Club, Warrumbungles, 1968 From left (standing) John Shera, Ted Cais, Kirsty Jensen, Cec Murray, Sandra Tillack, ...

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The fall factor Not to be overshadowed by the exploits of his peers, Greg Sheard (pictured) decided to give up smoking (an elusive goal he ...

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Leaps of faith Rick White had quickly established himself as one of the most active and innovative climbers amongst the new cohort in Queen...

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And the women? Although climbing in Queensland (and the rest of Australia) in the late 1960s was largely a boys’ club, several women had be...

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Maintaining a long tradition of climbing a prominent cross-river structure in Brisbane (from left) Chris Meadows, Greg Sheard, Michael Meado...

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In high places Rick White, climbing with Dave Reeve, found the first route up the big east face on Mt Maroon in February 1968. They called i...

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New waves in the deep north Rockclimbing had become firmly established in the eastern states in Australia by 1968. In Queensland, more new c...

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Tilting at tradition By the close of 1967, John Ewbank had convinced his climbing compatriots in New South Wales to adopt a new open-e...
Monday, October 03, 2005

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The east face of Mt Barney In May 1966, John Tillack solved one of the great climbing challenges in southeast Queensland, making the first a...

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Loaded Ted Cais’s introduction to climbing came at an early age with Bert Salmon introducing him to previously unknown scrambles on the cra...
Wednesday, September 28, 2005

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East Crookneck free ...almost Perhaps the piece de la resistance for Les Wood (pictured) during his 1966 sojourn in Queensland was making t...

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Seeking Clemency On his return to Queensland after the Brisbane Rockclimbing Club's Warrumbungles climbing trip in 1966, Les Wood team...

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Out and beyond In March 1966, Les Wood began his assault on Queensland putting up the climb, Trojan , weaving its way through the summit ove...

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A new climbing ethic In Queensland in 1966, more than 30 new routes went up on crags in southeast Queensland, many of them destined to b...

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John Ewbank leads out on the 17th pitch of his girdle of the Wirindi cliffline, The Masterpiece . Although in this photograph, taken during...

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The times they were a-changin’ New South Wales climber John Ewbank picked up on a popular Rolling Stones’ hit of the time and penned an a...
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Thursday, September 22, 2005

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The Brisbane Rockclimbing Club The third incarnation of climbing club in Queensland—the Brisbane Rockclimbing Club (BRC)—was formed on 1 Se...

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Donn Groom (pictured) was a key influence on climbing in Queensland and Tasmania the 1960s and 70s. His father Arthur Groom became the first...
Wednesday, September 21, 2005

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Northeast Buttress on Tibrogargan in the Glasshouses, north of Brisbane. The route followed by Pat Conaghan and Grahame Hardy in 1964. At th...

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Tibrogargan's Northeast Buttress Pat Conaghan (pictured) teamed with Grahame Hardy in the Glasshouses to force a new route up Tibrogarg...

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Arapiles awakens Two new rockclimbing clubs formed in 1963—in the Australian Capital Territory and South Australia—as a large outcrop of pro...

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The swinging sixties Climbing in Australia went through an extraordinary period of development during the 1960s. As Queensland entered a pe...

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The Southern Alps of New Zealand Ron Cox leading on the 2nd ascent of the lower section of Nazomi's Southwest Ridge in January 1962. Naz...
Tuesday, September 20, 2005

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Mt Geryon: 1st winter ascent, 1960 Ron Cox had emerged as a dominant figure in the Queensland (and Australian) climbing scene and always...
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A long abseil Over Easter 1960, Ron Cox, Grahame Hardy and Basil Yule made the first descent of the 350 metre East Face of Mt Barney, follow...
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