The living rock: the origins of climbing in Australia

This site is an archive of documents, images, interviews and other information relevant to the origins of climbing in Australia. Comments are welcome (meadowsmh@gmail.com). Text copyright 2024 M.Meadows. Copyright to photographs is held by named photographers. Please request permission to reproduce.

Sunday, October 09, 2005

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Raoul Mellish (late 1940s and 1950s) We started on our own bat, Reg Ballard and myself. As far as I was concerned, it all came back to that...

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Jon Stephenson (late 1940s to present) [It was] partly the people but it was largely the places—and largely the environment. But over the c...
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Bert Salmon (1923 to World War II: ‘the spiritual father of Queensland climbing’) Why do they climb? I have often wondered…but I have never...

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Nora Dimes (Regular climber throughout the 1930s) Should you believe, with Addison, that the proper study of mankind is man, you may have me...

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L. M. R. , Sunday Mail , 1932. What is it that makes city toilers expose themselves to the dangers, hardships, and discomforts that must ac...

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Why? Rockclimbing has become more and more part of everyday society, as the cover of Qantas's Frequent Flyer magazine (above) demons...

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Where do we go from here? The very nature of sport climbing, along with a huge increase in the numbers of climbers, has led to some perhap...

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Changes... Early in 2005, the strange hiss of an electric bolt drill echoed around the overhangs on Tibrogargan. I’d just finished Promethe...
Friday, October 07, 2005

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Climbing for adventure Wendy Steele and sister Katie ( closest to camera) high on the north face of Leaning Peak making the 1st female asce...

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Bolts and the Buttress The first bolt was placed at Frog Buttress in 1981 in a climb called Yodel up the Valley . It was repeated shortly a...

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Women’s place By the mid 1980s, as female climbers in Australia were beginning to establish themselves on the hard sport routes. Louise...

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Challenges for Rick White Rick White returned to the Himalayas for a second time with Michael Groom in 1991 to climb Everest, but the tri...

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Twenty years ago today... The 'discoverers' of Frog Buttress (from left) Rick White and Chris Meadows, with Jane White, prepare to c...

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Challenges for Michael Groom Queenslander Michael Groom (pictured) had decided that climbing would be a big part of his life at an early ...
Thursday, October 06, 2005

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The East Pillar of Shivling In May 1981, Rick White and Greg Child joined Britons Doug Scott and Don Whillans, along with Frenchman Geor...

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New games: new names Kim Carrigan’s and others’ adoption of European sport climbing techniques and training strategies set up a framework fo...

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Climbing high For almost a decade, Fred From was a significant force in Queensland climbing. He refused to use either climbing boots or c...
Wednesday, October 05, 2005

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East Barney solo Robert Staszewski (pictured) made the first and only known solo ascent of the east face of Mt Barney in March 1979. ...

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Climbing solo Rick White made the first solo ascent of Ball’s Pyramid in 1979 in one hour 45 minutes while on a trip there with members of...

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Climbing by numbers In Australia by the mid 70s, another generation of young climbers was filling in the gaps at Frog Buttress and var...
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White punks on chalk Over the Christmas-New Year period in 1974-75, Rick White and Robert Staszewski made a bold attempt to climb a new rou...

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Bootlaces and Beerwah Ian Thomas (pictured) and Robert Staszewski teamed up in 1973 and almost immediately took on the hardest classics i...

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First Australian ascents in Yosemite Rick White at Frog Buttress in 1973 shortly after returning from becoming the first Australian to clim...

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Into the maw of The Minotaur One of the strongest memories of the Porter’s Pass climbing meet for Ted Cais was his second ascent with Rick...

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Porter's Pass climbing meet With the interstate climbing ‘war’ at its peak, a large contingent of Queensland and Victorian climbers joi...

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Beyond the Buttress The first recorded climb on the Girraween granite near Stanthorpe— Late Afternoon Flake (pictured)—by Dave Gillieson a...

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Coomera Gorge: 1st descent In December 1972 in the heat of another Queensland summer, Donn Groom, Ted Cais and I decided to try something en...

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Queensland takes the lead...again From the early 1970s, Rick White continued to push the boundaries of hard aid and free climbing in A...
Tuesday, October 04, 2005

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'Dirty Don' in the deep north Greg Sheard moved to Townsville in 1970 and soon tracked down some locals who were interested in clim...

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Big wall battles Big wall climbing was news in various Australian magazines (pictured) at this time with the antics of John Ewbank and othe...

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Deep Purple on Rock By 1970, many of the easy, obvious lines had been climbed at Frog Buttress and it would be a hard core who would eke ou...

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Ethical adventures Ted Cais with an array of pitons and ‘crackers’—a central element of clean climbing ethics applied in Queensland from the...

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Victoria versus the rest From the mid-1960s, the Sydney-based climbing magazine, Thrutch , had become the main conduit for Australian climbe...

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Back to the 'Bungle s Easter 1969 saw another small, strong contingent of Queensland climbers heading for the volcanic spires of the W...

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The 1st Frog Buttress guidebook Around the middle of 1969, Rick White produced his own guidebook to Frog Buttress and it was quickly out...

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The revolution continues Although still very much a male-dominated world, talented 16 year old Marilyn Dall (pictured left) joined with ‘v...

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Hi-ho, hi-ho, de-bolting we will go In August 1968, the Brisbane Rockclimbing Club became the first in Australia—after the Sydney Rockclim...

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Ted Cais ' jamBs' over the bulge on the 2nd ascent of Infinity at Frog Buttress. He recalls his relationship with Rick White and ...

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'Paradise found' It was a Saturday afternoon—9 November 1968—when Rick White and Chris Meadows on the spur of the moment decided to ...

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The Brisbane Rockclimbing Club, Warrumbungles, 1968 From left (standing) John Shera, Ted Cais, Kirsty Jensen, Cec Murray, Sandra Tillack, ...

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The fall factor Not to be overshadowed by the exploits of his peers, Greg Sheard (pictured) decided to give up smoking (an elusive goal he ...
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