Leaps of faith

Rick White had quickly established himself as one of the most active and innovative climbers amongst the new cohort in Queensland in 1968 and the new routes he led began to mount. With Chris Meadows now his regular climbing partner, he climbed a series of hard new routes at Binna Burra, Mt Greville and Mt Maroon—and a steep, bold line on the southwest buttress of Glennies Pulpit, Prepare to Meet Thy God (pictured). It was named after a sign bearing those words was ‘liberated’ from a gum tree a few weeks before. For many years, the sign hung on the climb as a warning to non-believers! Taking leave while on his honeymoon, White linked up with Paul Caffyn to do the second ascent of the East Face of Mt Barney in damp and sometimes slimy conditions on the anniversary of the first ascent. Caffyn balanced his interest in speleology and climbing throughout the years he was active in Queensland, studying geology, until, like others before him, the lure of the New Zealand mountains and eventually, kayaking, became too great. But during his brief time as a climber in Queensland, he managed to channel much of his nervous energy and talent into some memorable and difficult ascents. White chose him to try a bold new route on the East Face of Mt Maroon. They began their assault in July, climbing four pitches on the steep, bare wall. It had all the hallmarks of being Queensland’s hardest route—and they were only halfway! Six weeks later, White and Caffyn started from their previous high point and climbed the last four pitches to the summit—Caffyn falling twice on the crux. They called the climb Beau Brummel. Five months later, White returned with Ted Cais and made the first complete ascent of the route under a blazing Queensland February sun.

Picture: Michael Meadows collection.